Bicycle TouringOur StoriesUSA

Gold Beach to Harris Beach to Crescent City

posted by Tim May 16, 2019 0 comments
  • Date: Tuesday, Wednesday, May 14, 15.
  • Distance: 105 km.
  • Route: Mostly Highway 101, some secondary roads.
  • Roads: low traffic, wide enough shoulders, great cycling.

Tuesday morning we woke up to the sound of rain ticking on our tent. The forecast was correct – too bad. Packed all our panniers in the tent and finally the wet tent itself. We got ourselves a hot coffee and American sized muffin at Rachel’s coffee shop / library of Gold Beach. That helped to give the moral a boost! We had an interesting conversation with David (a local) about the environment and Tsunami harzard zone that stretches from Seattle to San Francisco. We saw some houses being built near the beach that seemed thin and weak – not built to be able to withstand earthquakes / tsunamis. David said “an earthquake could happen here any moment, and there is some preparation for it, like signed tsunami evacuation routes, but a lot of people think it won’t happen to them, so they build those weak houses anyway”.The biggest climb today was a fairly gradual ascend up a few hundred feet to Cape Sebastian. We cycled in the rain and clouds that were stuck on the hillside. It gave the forests a different, kind of mystical appearance. Despite the weather, we actually loved it! And in the afternoon it started clearing up, the sun got back, and we watched the sunset at the beautiful beach of Harris Beach State Park.

Rock arched by pounding water

Katrina cycling

Sunset at Harris Beach

Wednesday we woke up to the rain again. Cycled through the city of Brookings to Crescent City, all the way in the rain. Somehow felt quite tired this day, not having cycled much, probably partly because of the weather.

Cows on the way to Crescent City

In Crescent City we were lucky again with a special warmshowers host: Katie from St. Paul’s church. She had an appointment out of town so her friend Jeanine waited for us at the church. Being wet and tired, we couldn’t have wished for a warmer welcome. We put our bikes in the garage and Jeanine showed the kitchen, warm showers, and living area. There were even cabinets with towels and food especially for her warmshowers guests. They have received almost 2000 of guests since 2013 in this way. And they support their local community in different ways as well. We were astonished by their kindness, generosity, and good they do for their fellow human beings. An hour later we met Kathy. We talked about their work, how the warmshowers hosting came about, things to do and see on our route and more. We didn’t know she also came to collect a little fee… Being a hug! What a wonderful people.

Another guest arrived somewhat later too: Natascha. She was hitchhiking along the coast without any money, sleeping mostly on the road covered in a tarp and sleeping bag, and she was on a spiritual quest, visiting several Buddhist monestaries on the way. We talked, ate dinner together, and then went to bed warm and dry.

Saint Paul’s Church in Crescent City

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